When it comes to solving common canine problems, common sense can be easily abandoned and frustration will reign. We keep trying the same things that should work, and then wonder which end of the leash has a problem.
 
This brings to mind a comment made by a man walking his dog on a choke chain. Sadly, the dog was strangling himself as he doggedly pulled on the leash. The man remarked, “I’ve been using this thing for three years. You’d think he’d learn!” Obviously the human end of the leash hadn't learned anything in this situation.
 
Commonsense solutions to common problems involve baby steps. We’ll break the training down into small steps and train each step solidly before moving on to the next. Oftentimes, this means starting from the end. For instance, if we’re trying to change the behavior of a dog with who jumps on people, we won’t start by inviting guests to our home and then expect to teach the dog to sit quietly when the doorbell rings. Instead, we’ll teach the dog to sit quietly for greetings with people already in the house and work backwards from there.
 
In this post, we’ll take a fresh look at some common problems and look at key tips for commonsense solutions.
 
Key Tips for Excessive Barking

• Determine the cause of the barking
• Put “Speak” and “Shush” on cue
• Do not yell at or punish the dog for barking
• Teach your dog what to do instead of barking

 
Key Tips for Polite Door Greetings

• Do not punish the dog for jumping up
• Teach your dog what to do instead of jumping
• Teach your dog impulse control
• Teach your dog a sit-stay
• Teach your dog that good things happen to those who wait

 
Key Tips for Training Leash Walking Skills

• Teach your dog to pay attention when asked
• Don’t pull on your dog’s leash
• Allow your dog to sniff and explore
• Teach your dog to come along when asked

 
Key Tips for Training Recall (Come when Called)

• Capture the behavior
• Make recall totally worth your dog's effort
• ALWAYS make recall a positive experience for your dog
• Resist the urge to chase your dog

 
Key Tips for Preventing and Changing Destructive Behavior

• Determine the cause of the behavior
• Train an alternative behavior
• Employ good management and common sense  

 
Key Tips for Preventing Digging

• Determine the cause of the behavior
• Employ good management
• Provide an appropriate place for digging

 
Now that I’ve given you the key tips for dealing with some common unwanted behaviors, you might be asking how to employ them? You can book a session with me for personal coaching or you can purchase my book entitled, No Problem: Behavior Solutions that Work with Your Dog, Not Against Them. It offers a fresh approach to dog training that respects your dog’s instincts and emotional needs.
 
Book a session: https://calendly.com/dog-training-coaching/60min?month=2024-11
Get the book: https://tinyurl.com/39rsy8wd
 
 
 

Working with dogs who have special needs is a journey of patience, understanding, and adaptability. These dogs, whether they’re dealing with physical limitations, behavioral challenges, or emotional sensitivities, require us to approach their training in a way that respects their unique experiences and needs. In my work at Peaceful Paws, I blend positive reinforcement techniques with empathy and compassion, which can be particularly impactful for dogs with special needs. Let’s dive into some of the key techniques that can make training a fulfilling experience for both you and your special-needs companion.
 
Start with Empathy and Observation
Each special-needs dog has their own story and unique ways of interacting with the world. Before diving into any specific training exercises, I spend time observing and connecting with the dog. This is essential to understanding how they process information and what might help them feel safe and supported. For example, a dog who is hard of hearing may rely more on visual cues, while a dog with anxiety may need a calm, gradual introduction to new activities.
 
Use Positive Reinforcement—Gently
Positive reinforcement works wonders, especially with special-needs dogs. It’s all about rewarding behaviors you want to see more of, which helps build trust and encourage engagement. However, for some dogs with special needs, even positive reinforcement must be adapted. For example, if a dog is sensitive to touch due to a past trauma or physical condition, a verbal cue like “Good job!” or a treat reward may be more effective than physical praise. Tailoring the type of reinforcement to each dog is a central part of my approach.
 
Focus on Clear and Consistent Cues
Clear communication is especially vital for special-needs dogs. For dogs with hearing impairments, using hand signals instead of voice commands can make training easier and more intuitive for them. On the other hand, for dogs with vision impairments, consistent verbal cues paired with specific scents can help them understand what’s expected. Developing a shared “language” creates a foundation of trust and predictability, which is comforting for all dogs, but especially those with special needs.
 
Break Down Tasks into Small, Achievable Steps
For dogs who may struggle with physical tasks or who find new experiences overwhelming, breaking down training exercises into small steps can make a world of difference. Rather than teaching a complex behavior all at once, I work in stages, celebrating each small accomplishment. This approach helps the dog build confidence without feeling overwhelmed. For example, when teaching a dog with mobility challenges to navigate stairs, we might start with just one step at a time, rewarding and encouraging along the way.
 
Create a Calm, Controlled Environment
The right environment is key when training special-needs dogs. An overstimulating environment can make learning difficult, especially for dogs with anxiety or sensory sensitivities. I find it beneficial to start training sessions in a quiet, familiar space where the dog feels safe. Once they’re comfortable with a behavior in a controlled setting, we can gradually introduce new distractions or locations.
 
Be Ready to Adapt and Adjust
Flexibility is at the heart of training special-needs dogs. What works one day might need a tweak the next, depending on the dog’s mood, health, or environment. I always approach each session with an open mind, ready to adjust the plan if needed. It’s not uncommon for a dog to show me, in their own way, that a particular method isn’t working for them, and I strive to honor that feedback. It’s in these moments that the connection deepens, and I learn as much from them as they do from me.
 
Embrace the Progress—Big and Small
Every dog’s progress is unique, and the milestones will look different for each one. Some days, the progress may seem small, like a dog feeling comfortable approaching a new object, while other days, there might be a breakthrough that feels monumental. Celebrating these wins, no matter how small, reinforces the bond between you and your dog and acknowledges their efforts. Training a special-needs dog is less about the destination and more about the journey we take together.
 
Training a dog with special needs may require extra patience and creativity, but the rewards are profound. These dogs teach us about resilience, adaptability, and the power of connection. By approaching their training with empathy, clarity, and flexibility, we open the door to a relationship built on trust and mutual understanding.
 
At Peaceful Paws, I am honored to walk this path with each special-needs dog and their human companion, helping them discover new ways to communicate and deepen their bond. After all, every dog deserves the opportunity to learn, grow, and thrive in a way that respects their unique needs.

   You’ve probably heard a lot about how crucial consistency is in dog training—and that’s true! But it’s important to understand where consistency really matters and where flexibility can actually benefit you and your dog.
 
When Consistency is Key
   Let’s start with cues (the signals you give your dog to perform specific behaviors). Being consistent with the words you use is essential. For instance, if you use the word “down” to ask your dog to lie down, but also use “down” when they’re jumping up on you, you’re setting the stage for confusion. Similarly, if you sometimes say “down” to ask your dog to lie down, but other times say “chill” or “relax,” it can be tough for your dog to understand what you really want.
While it’s possible for dogs to learn different words for the same behavior, keeping it simple by using the same cue each time is often the best route. This is particularly true when teaching new behaviors, as consistency helps your dog learn more quickly and clearly.
   Consistency isn’t just about the words you use—it extends to the tone of your voice and how often you give the cue. For example, repeating a cue over and over can become background noise to your dog. They might even start thinking they don’t need to respond until you’ve said it multiple times. By saying the cue once, you avoid teaching your dog that ignoring you the first few times is an option.
Another area where consistency matters is in how often you practice a behavior. Let’s say you’re working on polite leash walking. If you’re asking your dog to walk nicely most of the time, but occasionally let them pull because they’re excited to sniff something, you’re sending mixed signals. Your dog might learn that pulling on the leash works when they really want something, which can undermine your training efforts.
   If leash manners are something you’re struggling with, feel free to reach out. I have some effective strategies for teaching polite leash walking!
 
Where Consistency Can Work Against You
   Now, here’s where things get tricky—consistency isn’t always a good thing. Humans are naturally inconsistent, and that can sometimes work against us in training. The real challenge arises when we’re not around to maintain that consistency.
   For instance, let’s talk about potty training. Ideally, we’re consistently taking our puppy outside when they need to go and rewarding them for pottying outside. But what happens when we’re at work or out of the house? We can’t be there to take them out, and that’s where problems arise. The puppy might learn that it’s okay to potty inside when you’re not home because no one is there to take them outside or correct them.
   Even worse, your puppy may figure out that they can go potty in the house whenever you’re not looking. A fascinating study showed that dogs are aware when you’re paying attention to them. In this study, dogs were told to “leave it” when a treat was placed in front of them. As long as the human was watching, the dogs wouldn’t take the treat. But as soon as the person closed their eyes, many of the dogs grabbed the treat! It’s fun to try this with your own dog.
  Dogs are incredibly observant, and they can quickly learn when you’re unavailable to redirect them—whether you’re washing dishes or getting into the shower. This can be especially problematic with behaviors like potty training and destructive chewing.
 
Planning for Inconsistencies
   The best way to handle the inconsistencies we can’t control is by planning for them. For example, in the case of potty training, you might want to use crates, baby gates, or puppy pads when you’re not able to be there. This way, you’re preventing the puppy from developing bad habits when you’re not around to guide them.
   Below are some links to resources that can help with potty training and managing destructive chewing. Consistency, where it matters, will go a long way in helping your dog learn faster and more reliably.

In the meantime, happy training! 
 
Potty Training: https://acrobat.adobe.com/id/urn:aaid:sc:VA6C2:6b6f792b-56b7-4b41-894a-33b79c9c51b2
 
Destructive Chewing: https://acrobat.adobe.com/id/urn:aaid:sc:VA6C2:ba367490-5c9e-4764-8d9c-44285dc460d1

One of the most important things I emphasize in my dog training is the significance of proper socialization. Whether you're starting with a new puppy or working with an adult dog, the socialization process is crucial for helping them feel comfortable and confident in various environments. It sets the foundation for their entire life—shaping how they interact with people, animals, and the world around them.
 
However, when it comes to puppies under four months old, socialization needs to be approached with a focus on safety. Since puppies this young have developing immune systems and are not fully vaccinated, we must balance their need for exposure with protecting their health.
 
Safely Socializing Puppies Under Four Months Old

• Early socialization is key to raising a well-rounded dog, but it’s equally important to do this in a way that keeps them safe from potential health risks. Here are my top tips for socializing your puppy while keeping them healthy:

 

• Avoid high-traffic areas before full vaccinations: Parks, pet stores, and other places with lots of unfamiliar dogs can be risky before your puppy has received their full set of vaccines. These areas often harbor diseases like parvovirus or kennel cough. Instead, opt for controlled environments, such as your backyard or a friend’s house, with healthy, vaccinated dogs.

 

• Organize safe puppy playdates: A great way to safely socialize a young puppy is through organized playdates with other puppies or dogs you know are fully vaccinated and healthy. You can host these in a home or a yard that’s been cleaned, ensuring your puppy has positive, safe interactions without the risk of picking up an illness.

 

• Enroll in a puppy class with strict health protocols: Puppy classes can be a fantastic way to expose your puppy to other dogs and new situations while being under the supervision of a professional. Look for classes that require all puppies to have at least their first round of vaccinations and ensure the facility follows strict cleaning protocols to minimize any health risks.

 

• Carry your puppy in new environments: While your puppy might not be able to explore the ground in high-traffic areas, you can still expose them to new sights, sounds, and smells by carrying them. Whether it’s a busy street, a pet-friendly store, or an outdoor café, your puppy can take in these experiences from the safety of your arms or a dog carrier.

 

• Focus on exposure to different types of people: You don’t need to wait until your puppy is fully vaccinated to start introducing them to new people. Having friends, neighbors, and family members of all ages visit your home can help your puppy get used to different types of people while staying in a safe environment.

 

• Vet visits as socialization opportunities: Though many puppies may be nervous about going to the vet, it’s actually a great opportunity for socialization. Make these visits positive by bringing treats and helping your puppy associate the vet’s office with good things. If your vet allows, you can schedule “happy visits” where your puppy just gets weighed, greeted, and given treats without any medical procedures.

 
Socializing Puppies: Early and Often
Once you’ve laid the groundwork for safe socialization, you can begin exposing your puppy to a variety of experiences. Remember to always go at their pace and use positive reinforcement to build confidence.
 
Here’s how I typically approach socializing puppies:

• Introduce new sights, sounds, and smells: Take your puppy to different environments where they can encounter various sights and sounds—parks, pet-friendly stores, and even around the block (in a carrier if needed). Pay attention to their body language and adjust the pace if needed.

 

• Meet new people and dogs in safe environments: Puppies need to meet a wide variety of people, including men, women, children, seniors, and people of different ethnicities. Make sure that these introductions are done in safe, clean spaces, and always prioritize meeting well-behaved, vaccinated dogs.

 

• Start slow with other dogs: While it’s important for puppies to interact with other dogs, ensure that these interactions are positive and safe. Well-mannered older dogs or structured puppy playgroups can be great for helping your puppy learn how to play nicely without overwhelming them.

 

• Car rides and new spaces: Getting a puppy used to riding in the car or being in different environments (like the vet’s office or a friend’s house) can be really helpful down the road. I recommend starting with short car rides and gradually working up to longer trips once they are comfortable.

 
Socializing Adult Dogs: It’s Never Too Late
If you’ve adopted an adult dog or have a dog that didn’t get much socialization early on, don’t worry—there’s still plenty of hope! While it can take more time and patience, socialization is possible, no matter the dog’s age.
 
My approach to adult dogs differs slightly from working with puppies:

• Go at their pace: Adult dogs, especially those who have missed out on early socialization, may feel overwhelmed more easily. Take things slowly and respect their boundaries. If they seem stressed in a situation, it’s okay to take a step back and try again later.

 

• Use positive reinforcement: Just like with puppies, I rely heavily on positive reinforcement—praise, treats, and gentle encouragement. It’s important to reward calm, confident behavior and to create positive associations with new experiences.

 

• Gradual exposure to new things: If your adult dog is fearful of other dogs, strangers, or loud environments, slowly desensitizing them can make a world of difference. Start at a distance where your dog feels safe and gradually decrease that distance over time, rewarding them for calm behavior along the way.

 

• Build confidence through training: One of my favorite ways to build a dog’s confidence is through training. Simple commands like sit, stay, and down, along with games like nose work or agility, can boost your dog’s self-assurance in unfamiliar situations. A confident dog is a dog that is more likely to handle new experiences with ease.

 
Common Mistakes to Avoid
There are a few pitfalls I see people fall into when trying to socialize their dogs, both puppies and adults. Here’s what to watch out for:

• Forcing interactions: Never force your dog into a situation that makes them uncomfortable. Socialization should be about positive, controlled exposure, not flooding your dog with stress.

 

• Skipping socialization after the puppy stage: Many people believe that once a dog is out of the puppy phase, they no longer need socialization. In reality, it’s a lifelong process, and continuing to expose your dog to new environments and experiences will keep them adaptable and well-adjusted.

 

• Overloading your dog: As much as we want our dogs to experience everything, it’s crucial not to overwhelm them. Balance new experiences with downtime and relaxation to ensure they don’t get overstressed.

 
Final Thoughts
In my work at Peaceful Paws, I see firsthand how properly socialized dogs are happier, more confident, and better equipped to handle whatever life throws their way. Whether you’re working with a playful puppy or a more reserved adult dog, taking the time to focus on socialization will pay off in the long run.
 
Remember, patience, positivity, and safety are key to socialization, especially with young puppies. Every new experience is an opportunity for your dog to learn and grow.
 
You can find a complete guide to socialization in my book Whole World, Whole Dog: Socializing Your Dog to People, Places, and Things: https://tinyurl.com/3cnz5udc

​    Dining at restaurants with dogs is not a right, but a privilege and one ill-mannered dog (or person) can spoil that privilege. It is ultimately a courtesy of the restaurant to allow dogs. Because state health regulations must be followed, owners have the final say as to whether or not dogs are allowed in their establishment's outside dining areas.
   Pets are mainly banned from restaurants due to health and safety concerns. Therefore, only the best-behaved, should be ambassadors for the cause. Dogs must be masters of basic obedience behaviors or they won’t be welcomed by restaurateurs and patrons. At very least, dogs must know sit, down, and stay. But to set a good example and remain in favor with the establishment, we’ll have Fido rocking his behavior in public.
 
Beyond Fido’s Manners: Minding our End of the Leash

• The dog should be clean and well groomed
• The dog should wear current vaccination tags
• Give the dog a potty break beforehand (a courteous distance from the dining area)
• Exercise the dog beforehand
• Always keep the dog on leash (not a retractable)
• Tether the dog to a fixed object like a railing. If a fixed object is not available, tether him to your chair, not the table.
• Choose a table on the perimeter, preferably with a quick exit plan
• Choose a table away from other dogs
• Keep the dog out of the wait staff’s path
• Do not take the dog inside the restaurant, even to get to the patio
• Bring your own water bowl
• Do not allow the dog to drink or eat from restaurant dishes (health code prohibits pets from using glasses and dishes)
• Do not feed the dog from the table
• Do not allow the dog on the table or chairs
• Be prepared to pay the check and leave if the dog creates a disturbance or becomes stressed

       • Leave a nice tip for your server
 
Fido’s Manners

• No barking
• No whining
• No jumping
• No socializing unless invited
• No resource guarding (food, mats, or people)

Beyond the Basics for Dining with Fido
    As with teaching any behavior, we won’t be doing on-the-job training. We’ll do it at home with little or no distraction, and then gradually working up to the real-life situation. We must first build a firm foundation and then help the dog to generalize the desired behaviors. The first visit to a restaurant will be short, having only a cup of coffee. We’ll practice and generalize beforehand by going to other places where dogs are typically allowed, such as pet supply and home improvement stores.

Resource guarding is a behavior exhibited by dogs where they exhibit protective or aggressive actions towards others—humans or animals—when they feel their food, toys, or other valued items are threatened. This natural, instinctive behavior can be distressing and dangerous if not properly managed. Here's a comprehensive look at what resource guarding is and how you can effectively manage it to ensure safety and harmony at home.

What Is Resource Guarding?
Resource guarding refers to any behavior that a dog uses to discourage others from approaching their valued resource. This might include growling, snapping, or biting when someone approaches their food bowl, or a toy, or even a favorite resting spot. It’s important to understand that this behavior is rooted in instinct—dogs are naturally inclined to protect resources that are crucial to their survival.

Why Do Dogs Guard Resources?
Several factors contribute to why a dog might guard resources:

• Genetics: Some breeds may have a stronger inclination towards guarding behaviors.
• Learned Behavior: If a dog learns that aggressive behavior successfully keeps their resource safe, the behavior is likely to continue.
• Environment: Competition with other animals in the home can exacerbate guarding behaviors.
• Anxiety: A general sense of insecurity or past scarcity (common in rescue dogs) can trigger resource guarding.
  
  

Managing Resource Guarding

• Early Identification: The first step in managing resource guarding is recognizing the signs early. Watch for subtle signs of discomfort (stiffening, side-eye glances, low growls) when approached during meals or play. Early intervention can prevent these behaviors from escalating.
• Create a Positive Association: Changing your dog’s perception about being approached while they have a resource is key. Begin by tossing high-value treats towards your dog while they are eating or chewing a toy, without getting too close. Over time, your dog will learn that the approach of a human to their resource predicts good things and not a threat. (See my book “The Guarded Canine” for complete training and treatment plans.)*
• Avoid Confrontation: Do not punish your dog for resource guarding; this can increase their stress and make the problem worse. Instead, work on making them feel secure and ensure they don't feel they need to defend their resources.
• Controlled Feeding: If food is the guarded resource, feed your dog in a quiet, uninterrupted place. You can also hand-feed them to improve their comfort with human proximity during feeding times.
• Professional Help: If resource guarding behaviors are severe or worsening, consult with me at Peaceful Paws. I can provide tailored strategies and support to safely manage and modify your dog's guarding behaviors. https://peacefulpaws.net/resource-guarding.html

Resource guarding is a manageable behavior with the right approach and understanding. By respecting your dog’s instincts and working through positive reinforcement methods, you can help mitigate these behaviors, ensuring a safer and more peaceful environment for everyone involved.

*The Guarded Canine:
Nurturing Trust in Resource Guarding Dogs
by Pat Blocker, CPDT-KA, FFCP

You may have heard the saying, "A tired dog is a good dog." In reality, a tired dog is simply a tired dog. When we talk about "good" or "bad" behavior, we often focus on things like destructive chewing, excessive barking, or other unwanted actions. However, these behaviors are not necessarily bad. Instead, they are ways your dog is communicating something important—perhaps they're bored, lonely, or not getting enough mental stimulation.

While exercise is crucial in meeting your dog’s physical needs, it doesn't always address their mental requirements. For instance, taking a walk provides some physical activity, but it may not be enough for your dog's overall well-being. The amount of physical exercise needed can vary depending on factors like age, size, and overall health. For some dogs, a two-mile walk may be barely sufficient, while for others, it could be too much. Over-exercising can lead to problems as well—an overtired dog, much like an overtired child, may become cranky or act out. It’s always a good idea to consult your veterinarian and/or a professional behaviorist to determine the appropriate level of physical activity for your dog.

When it comes to walks, it’s not just about physical movement; mental stimulation is equally important. There are times when your dog should heel beside you, like when crossing a busy street or passing other pedestrians. However, you don’t want the walk to be so structured that your dog misses out on opportunities to engage in natural behaviors, such as sniffing, greeting other dogs (if they’re dog-friendly), or interacting with people (if they enjoy human company). 

For times when you're away from home for extended periods—such as during a workday—it's essential to provide enrichment to keep your dog engaged. Puzzle toys are a great option, offering mental challenges that reward your dog with treats once they solve the puzzle. These toys are an easy and effective way to stimulate your dog’s mind. Additionally, training can offer a wealth of mental stimulation. You might enroll your dog in a group training class, participate in dog sports like agility, rally, or herding, or simply teach them new tricks at home. 

In the end of the day, both physical exercise and mental stimulation are key to a happy, well-behaved dog. So, instead of saying, "A tired dog is a good dog," perhaps we should say, "A well-trained, mentally stimulated dog is a happy dog."

The more the merrier? It can be done, but beware! Living with two dogs is not just double the work and cost; it’s much more. Living with three or more dogs can be off the management, expense, and worry charts. On the other hand, multiple dog households are off the fun and the love charts, as well.
​
Dogs are social animals. Therefore, we expect they should live effortlessly in perfect accord within a group. Many dogs can. Our function as leaders is to create a harmonious home. This can be achieved through a commitment to management, training, and attention to the needs of all family members, both canine and human.

Training Multiple Dogs-The Real-Life Facts: Living with and training multiple dogs would seem a Sisyphean task. With a bit of planning, thought, and radical patience it’s not. Nonetheless, it’s not always a walk in the park.

Here are a few tips to maintain peace in your pack:
 
Train Each Dog to be Comfortable Alone: In a multi-dog household, we need one-on-one time with each dog for training. Consequently, we must be able to separate them and make sure those dogs waiting their turn are comfortable with alone time.
 
Teach the Basics: Each dog in a multi-dog household must be well trained. Otherwise, the situation can be unmanageable. The key to success is to teach each dog individually. When he’s reliable with the new behavior on his own, it’s safe to ask him to perform in a group.
 
Individuality: Oftentimes in relationships, the space given to each other brings us closer together. To continually treat dogs as a pack instead of the individuals they are is a detriment to training and our relationships with them.
 
Training as a Group: We often need dogs to do things simultaneously, such as waiting at the door. In order to perform cues in a group, each dog must first be masterful in the behavior.
 
Competition: Dogs often compete for attention and resources in the presence of other dogs. We can mitigate canine competition by training each dog to stay while the others get attention.
 
Living with multiple dogs can be both a privilege and an incredibly rewarding experience. It brings joy, companionship, and a deep sense of fulfillment. However, it also comes with its unique challenges, which can be managed effectively with the right approach, an abundance of patience, and lots of love.
 
For a complete guide to living at peace in a multi-dog household, you can book a consultation with me and/or order my book entitled Paws in Sync: Training and Harmony in a Multi-Dog Home (one title in my new series Taking the Lead without Jerking the Leash.) https://tinyurl.com/2axzm754

​Happy training!

 
 
 
 

    When it comes right down to it, we need to realize that dogs are not genetically designed to be isolated. While most dogs, being the adaptable creatures they are, can manage just fine staying at home alone, a smaller number of dogs struggle deeply with this—these are the dogs with true separation anxiety.
 
What Is True Separation Anxiety?
    We’re often quick to label a dog’s destructive, loud, or annoying behavior as separation anxiety. In reality, true separation anxiety is less common than you might think. Behaviors such as destructive chewing, house soiling, howling, and incessant barking can indeed be symptoms of separation anxiety. However, they can also be signs that dogs are simply filling their uneventful free time with their own canine antics. 
    Dogs suffering from genuine separation anxiety are in a state of high anxiety the entire time they’re alone. They panic at our departure and remain in distress until our return. These dogs may soil the house, chew on the furniture—or even on themselves—attempt to escape, pant, drool, tremble, bark, or howl during our absence. It’s heartbreaking to think that they spend so much of their lives in a state of panic.
 
Causes of Separation Anxiety
    It’s natural to wonder if human actions can cause separation anxiety in dogs. You might ask, “Does letting my dog sleep with me cause separation anxiety?” or “My dog never lets me go anywhere alone, even when I’m just heading to the kitchen—does this mean he has separation anxiety?” The experts tell us, “No.”
While over-attachment issues may not be the cause of separation anxiety, they can certainly exacerbate the problem. Some dogs have a genetic predisposition for separation anxiety. Just like humans, dogs have different personalities. Some have an outgoing, friendly nature, while others are more insecure and shy. It stands to reason that a dog who is less confident may have more trouble staying home alone.
 
Here are some common causes of separation anxiety: 
Traumatic Events: A traumatic event experienced while home alone can trigger the onset of separation anxiety. Sudden loud noises, thunderstorms, alarms, attempted break-ins, or harassment from unsavory passersby are just a few of the frightful events that could precipitate this anxiety.
 
Abandonment: Dogs that have been abandoned suddenly or re-homed to a dramatically different environment may struggle to adjust. Dogs that have been dumped and left to fend for themselves, or left alone without food or water, are particularly vulnerable. Additionally, a dog left in an unfamiliar, stressful place, such as an overcrowded shelter or boarding facility, may develop separation anxiety.
 
Never Alone: Dogs who have never been left alone can be candidates for separation anxiety. Show dogs, competition dogs, or puppy mill breeding stock that have spent their entire lives surrounded by other dogs may find a new, quiet home very disquieting—a situation ripe for the onset of separation anxiety. 
    Sudden changes during a dog’s assimilation period into a new home can contribute to the development of separation anxiety. For example, a dog adopted during the summer when the kids are out of school might suddenly find itself alone once August rolls around and everyone returns to their normal routines.
    The same concerns arose with the so-called “COVID puppies.” During lockdown, dog adoption rates soared, which was a good thing for both humans and dogs. But, as people began returning to work outside the home, what would happen to these dogs? With proper planning and training, we can successfully transition back to work without the fear of our dogs living in constant fear at home.
 
Managing Separation Anxiety 
    Now that we’ve discussed some of the causes of separation anxiety, it’s important to recognize that there isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution. Every dog is unique and learns differently, at their own pace.
 
    At Peaceful Paws, I offer a comprehensive program tailored to address separation anxiety in dogs. If you’d like to learn more about how we can help your dog, feel free to contact me through my website at http://www.peacefulpaws.net or email me directly at pat@peacefulpaws.net. 
    By working together, we can help your dog feel more secure and content, even when they’re home alone.